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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 |
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Thought this really interesting... Ethiopia was the only original African governement never to be conqured by Europeans. Liberia was also uncolonized but it was not an original African governement as it was founded by freed slaves from America. Sad part of history. 
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Monday, October 27, 2008 |
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Recently posted about the world's perception of Obama & asked if anyone thought Kenya might not be safe for the election. Was surprised to get some nasty emails from people thinking it was a pro-Obama statement. Obviously things are getting ugly back home. Wonder how long until we turn into a 3rd world country that starts killing each other after an election...(like Kenya did this year) Anyway, based on the below article, think it could get dicey... if he looses, people might take it out on whites in the area & if he wins, his father's opposing tribe who do not support him, might get violent. I'm even more determined to go there, but might stay out of Nairobi for the results. Obama Fever Picks Up as US Election Approaches [By Mohit Joshi for TopNews Network] US Presidential hopeful Barack Obama's stern face stares out from the back of a rickety Matatu - a commuter minibus - as it swerves through traffic in Kenyan capital Nairobi, the slogan "The Real Change" plastered alongside the image. By the side of the road a workman digs a trench, his "Obama 08" cap shading his eyes from the sun, while in a nearby bar, patrons chug down Senator beer, a cheap brew that has been nicknamed Obama beer. In Kenya, Obama's ancestral homeland, it is almost impossible to walk for five minutes without seeing some reminder of the East African nation's fervour for its prodigal son as the US elections swiftly approach on November 4. The senator's late father was Kenyan, and many of his family, including his grandmother, still live in the tiny village of Kogelo in Western Kenya. The link may be tenuous given that Obama has far closer links with his mother's side - his father abandoned the family when Obama was only two years old - and has only visited Kenya a handful of times. However, cheering crowds mobbed Obama's route during his last visit in 2006 and a recent BBC poll found that support for the senator in Kenya stood at over 80 per cent. Perhaps the most high-profile show of support came earlier this month when conservative US author Jerome Corsi, who had hoped to launch his book attacking the senator in Nairobi, was very publicly deported for visa violations. However, Kenya's tribal divisions, which exploded spectacularly into bloodshed early this year after disputed presidential elections, also show up when it comes to Obama. Many of the main protagonists in the violence that saw over 1,100 killed were Kikuyu, the tribe of President Mwai Kibaki, and Luo, the tribe of then opposition leader Raila Odinga, who accused Kibaki of stealing the election. Odinga became Prime Minister in a deal that brought the violence to an end and the coalition cabinet has held together, but the tribal divisions have not gone away. Obama's father was Luo, and as a result support for Obama among the Kikuyu, the largest of Kenya's forty-plus tribes, is decidedly thin. Nonetheless, many believe that having a US President with Kenyan links can only be good for the country, although there is realism over how much he can do for his father's native land given the current problems facing the US economy. "It will be good for Kenya, although maybe just through a few more scholarships for Kenyans and some more American tourists," says bus driver James Kinywa, 41. The general opinion among ordinary people in the former British colony is that having Obama in the White House may not bring more aid and investment but that it will have other, less tangible benefits. "It will be good for black people in general," says Daniel Ruto, 28, a gym instructor. "Whites will take us more seriously and it will gives us more self-confidence." Others believe that having a young black man leading one of the world's most powerful nations will send a message out to African leaders, such as Zimbabwe's Robert Mugabe, who are desperately clinging onto power in their twilight years. "It will be a new world order if Obama wins," says doctor Philip Gitu, 51. "There will be no more room for old leaders in Africa." With Kenyan newspapers cheerfully highlighting Obama's healthy lead in the polls, you would perhaps expect there to be high levels of optimism about the senator's chances of victory. However, there seems to be a certain amount of pessimism amongst a cross-section of Kenyans, with many believing that white voters simply will not vote for a black man. "I don't think he will win," says Mary Isaji, a market trader. "White people in the US are racist." Pessimistic or not, most of Kenya will be glued to their TV sets come November 4 and many a glass of "Obama" beer will be raised should Kenya's favourite son secure the predicted victory. Tags: Kenya Obama |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Saturday, October 25, 2008 |
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Been too lethargic. And, getting outta here's very tricky. So, planned out the next 800 miles... that'll keep me in motion awhile!
Tomorrow gonna buy a bus ticket leaving Monday headed south. Not sure where yet. 1) Addis to Shashemene or Awasa, 6hrs Shashemene is communal land given by Ethiopia to the Rastafarians. And a friend in NY will be disappointed if I miss it. Then there's Awasa, slightly south, on a lake inside the Great Rift Valley. Sounds kinda cool. They're really close to each other so might stay at the lake & visit the commune. Possible detour... to Arba Minch, another city on lake in the Great Rift Valley... but this one's got loads of crocs & hippos. Only hesitation... transport south -- maps don't show a real road nor is there info on a bus. 2) From wherever, next stop Moyale, 1.5 days on a bus! Not sure where the bus will stop for the night but know buses don't move at night in Ethiopia. If there's a bus heading south out of my detour city, the trip might be a day - a major plus. 3) Moyale to Marsabit, Kenya, 8.5hrs This is where it gets interesting... The Border: have to walk across the border into Kenya before the guards leave for the night & then arrange transport for the next morning. All transport outta town leaves early, before the border opens. So if I don't make it across, then I'm stuck another day... & this town's supposed to be REALLY horrible. Transport: Rumor has it there's a bus... but no one’s actually taken it... it's something like 'met a guy, who had a friend, who knew someone who took the bus'... Otherwise, only other option, hitching (with payment) on a truck. And this truck... maybe I'll be lucky & get the spot inside the cab, otherwise, possibly the truck bed or on top of the load or if it's a cattle truck - jockeying on the bars surrounding the cows. I've ridden on the tops of trucks before... & I always love it... but this time just not excited. Oh, did I mention, the road's NOT PAVED!! Plus, there are bandits, on again/off again tribal wars & a few governments have issued warnings against travel there... just to add a little excitement... But the area is supposed to be beautiful... a huge 3,000sq mile volcano with 180 little cones on it & 22 more volcanic craters. 
4) Marsabit to Isiolo, 8.5hrs Same deal as above... maybe a bus, maybe a truck, unpaved road. But another beautiful destination... Isiolo is at the base of Mt. Kenya, Africa's 2nd highest mountain & surrounded by 12 glaciers. 5) Might head to Nairobi (4.5hrs). But gonna try & kick the city addiction & head west. (And cross the equator for the 3rd time this trip.) Then after Uganda, Rwanda & Tanzania, do eastern Kenya... then fly from Nairobi into West Africa. (Unless I decide to overland thru the Congo... just kidding Mom!) Tags: Ethiopia Kenya |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Thursday, October 23, 2008 |
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While nothing compares to the Cambodian ad of a woman with a towel on her head yelling at her son to stop playing with the dead chicken (bird flu??)... these are some great ads in Addis...
An internet ad of a tribal couple with ash on their faces, him with a spear & her bare breasted with a disk in her lip on a computer. Even better... a Mr. Condom trash can... complete with sunglasses & muscles. Are you supposed to throw used condoms in here? Maybe a recycling program?? And what's the phone number for... to get condoms... a sex line... raises so many questions!
Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Wednesday, October 22, 2008 |
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Something strange happened during dinner... can't quite understand it... after everyone stopped staring & began getting back to their lives, was suddenly extremely aware of being the only white person in the place. Positive this happened before... but it didn't effect me... maybe 'cause this was a nice restaurant, coulda been in LA, nothing "exotic"... & all the people were just like me... dressed like me, imagined them having the same conversations I'd have with friends, assumingly of the same social status... yet, felt more like an outsider than ever. And think it was just because of the color of my skin. Now keep thinking about the only black student at my school... & feeling really bad all these years later... Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Tuesday, October 21, 2008 |
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I like Addis very much. Been here 3wks...should hope so! 90% of the people in the city are ordinary modern, individuals, going to & from the office or coffee shop. Which is nice - I'm normally in cities where the majority doesn’t actually work. And their all so friendly! Already filled one notebook with phone numbers of random people who want to take me out. The rest of the population... sad armless or legless beggars, fully decked-out Muslim holy men or the random goat herder. A nice mix. Most of the buildings were constructed in the 1970's so Addis has this funky retro feel too. But my favorite part is the local transport... minibuses shouting out destinations like... Algeria, Iraq or Mexico! Yeah, I'll go to Mexico... how many days will it take to cross the ocean? (The streets are mostly named after a country.) Like it all. But believe each city has a unique vibe & although I'd previously thought Addis might be a place to permanently settle, it just doesn't have the right vibe for me. Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Sunday, October 19, 2008 |
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Been infinitely interested in the world's reaction to Barak Obama. The first thing outta someone’s mouth after hearing I was American was to ask about Obama. Everyone loved him! And Indonesians, well they’re simply gob smacked over him! (Obama lived there awhile.) Using the past tense here because… after Obama made the speech about keeping America’s relationship with Israel status quo, everyone’s been a lot less enthusiastic. They still like him, but haven’t had another person shake with passion as they tell me how Obama’s gonna change America & the world. But that speech happened while I was in Egypt… & until recently, been in Arab countries… but Ethiopia isn’t. And their reaction to him… well… they don’t bring him up… but tons of street vendors are selling his books & seen a few Obama t-shirts. Anyway, I’m a political junkie & can’t hear enough about people’s impressions of America & right now, Obama. So… here’s the question… thinking about skipping most of Ethiopia & heading down to Kenya (where Obama’s father’s from) for the US election… - Will there be a Kenyan reaction to Obama’s victory (or defeat)?
- Is it worth skipping some of Ethiopia’s historic sites?
- Is there a possibility of large scale rioting, either way, to the election results?
Can’t decide… PLEASE, even if you don’t know me, email me your thoughts… Tags: Ethiopia Kenya politics |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Sunday, October 19, 2008 |
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Was at a Turkish restaurant in Yemen & when a group of men sat next to me in this nearly deserted restaurant. My friend said, "You know the difference between Turkish & Yemeni men – Yemenis will stand across the room & think they're flirting with you while Turks will come & sit right next to you." He was right, Yemeni men have no balls... & it was great! Totally miss it! Back to the fake wedding ring. Back to daily declarations of undying love & comments every 2 minutes on my beauty. While offers of sex aren't daily (only get the occasional 13yr old boy pointing at me then his dick)… most of these idiots shout at the top of their lungs then hurl insults after I ignore 'em. I'm not a supermodel; it's all about being a blonde Westerner. The Ethiopian tourism board really should consider a new marketing campaign targeting blondes with low egos. But my ego is healthy enough. And I've had it! Now I'm down right rude when they insist on talking to me & started curling my lip up in disgust while passing men on the street. Oh & was still getting propositioned after saying I was married but my husband was at home… (except for the guy that was helping me figure out which bus to take & then when I mentioned a husband - without a word, he totally split on me!) Now my fake husband works here. When one guy asked where, said UNDP & the guy said “oh, you David’s wife?” Don’t know what I was thinking! Said yes! Now having visions of “David” & the UNDP tracking me down. Sorry, realize I’m always bitching about foreign men… go ahead & let me be surround by beggars grabbing at me… or let an entire city cross their arms, stand still & stare… I handle that stuff no problem. But please keep those damn rude men away! Tags: Ethiopia men |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Wednesday, October 15, 2008 |
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I've been truly amazed at what a great internet connections are available most places in the world. Lao was a little slow, but still not bad. But Ethiopia, holy shit! This sucks! I've been trying for the past 4 days to simply read emails! Let alone post some stories... but today, at this moment... seems to be working... thank the internet god! Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Wednesday, October 15, 2008 |
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Remember the mid-80's famine in Ethiopia? Million dead, 7 million starving. Remember Geldof's 'Band Aid'? If you're old enough to remember, you'll find it really bizarre to think of Ethiopia as a culinary destination... but think you should! Ethiopian food is one of the world's best! Every Ethiopian meal centers around injera. Basically a pancake — or more like a really, really, big, slightly sour pancake. And spongy... which is all the better to sop up the dozen veggies & meat dishes symmetrically arranged on top of the monster pancake. In a country where utensils are scarce, this pancake's not only the plate, but also fork, spoon & possibly a napkin. And those dozen dishes on top... sautéed spinach with caramelized onions, fried green beans with garlic, lentils with spicy Indian-like spices & grilled chicken with sweet yoghurt sauce. And! All veggies are organic & meat hormone-free & grass fed -- there's no money for fancy pesticides or factory farms. Angelinos can go to anyone of 3 Ethiopian restaurants on Fairfax between Pico & Olympic. And Chicagoans should check out Mama Desda's. (It may be on Halsted.) At any of these places, I'd recommend ordering a veggie or meat mixed platter & Tej, a honey wine. And interesting, just learned the famine was the result of failed land reforms by Ethiopia's short-lived communist government. Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Wednesday, October 15, 2008 |
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Really have no need to know what day of the week it is. Or the date. Not even the month. Just realized it's October... where did April go?? Missed most of the holidays... & sorry, a few birthdays too. Only gotta know when my visa expires & have to split a country. Interesting, a weekend is not Saturday & Sunday everywhere. Egypt was Friday & Saturday. Yemen was Thursday & Friday. Met a guy working in Dubai, where the weekend is Thursday & Friday for an American company... poor guy was on call everyday. Here, hanging with some 9-5ers. So I'm aware of the weekends. Otherwise everyday is Saturday. Everyday is a weekend. Life's good! Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Saturday, October 11, 2008 |
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While walking around today, started worrying how nothing looks unusual anymore. Had just seen "Lucy", our 3.2 million year old relative & wondered, if I see a dinosaur will I be surprised? Have I seen it all? Does nothing shock me now?
But mid-thought, passed a random GOAT's HEAD, freshly decapitated, right in the middle of the road! No... that's not something I'm used to seeing everyday! Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Saturday, October 11, 2008 |
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Thought Yemen was a time warp... time there just vanished. Errands that should take an hour, took 3... an afternoon chat would end at midnight... hell, a week completely vanished! But Ethiopia... their clocks are seriously warped. Sunrise starts the clock - so 6:00 is 1:00, 7:00 is 2:00, etc. And Ethiopian time really does go slower... they've got 13 months in their calendar. Jeez, they just celebrated the year 2000 a month ago! Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Friday, October 10, 2008 |
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Both the Bible & Koran tell of the Queen of Sheba traveling on a diplomatic mission to Jerusalem to visit King Solomon. Most historians agree she was a real person from Marib, Yemen... the ancient name for that city being Sheba & there's even a temple for the Queen there. (Wasn't allowed to go because al-Qaida killed some tourist there last year.) Again, most historians think she was from Yemen, that is except Ethiopian historians. In fact, Ethiopians believe their old royal family were decedents of the illegitimate son she had with King Solomon. That's not all they disagree on. Sometime in the 17th century, the Dutch took the coffee plant from either Ethiopia or Yemen & transplanted it around the world in their colonies. Ok, historians don't take sides on this issue... but I will... the name of this original plant is 'Coffee Arabica' & Yemen was the world's largest supplier of coffee in the 15th & 16th centuries... with their coffee shipping out of the Yemen town of Mocha. Funny how countries can disagree~ Tags: Ethiopia Yemen |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Thursday, October 09, 2008 |
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Throughout Yemen are these absurdly overpriced honey shops. $200 jar of honey... I think not! In Yemen, the production of the honey & the shops themselves are owned by Bin Laden. It's well known that they're actually just a front for money-laundering. Well, just at the grocery store, wanted to buy some honey & made sure I didn't pick up any from Yemen. Then looked at the rest of the stuff in my basket... juice from UAE & shampoo from France - both ok... but soup from Saudi Arabia - is it ok?... & candy from Iran - could the Treasury Dept. come after me for supporting an enemy state??? Tags: Ethiopia politics |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Monday, October 06, 2008 |
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"Hello my name is Robin & I'm a qat addict. It's been 5 days since my last chew." Yeah, serious about the addict. Going thru withdrawal here. Two solid months of chewing qat in Yemen & my body needs more. Being a heavy-duty amphetamine, barely slept or ate. Now can't get enough sleep. Today was my first day without a nap. But keep thinking about it! Can't get it out of my mind! There's qat here. A store 10ft from my hotel. And Yemenis told me Ethiopian qat is even stronger. But I'm trying to resist... must be strong! First there was the Beer Lao addiction, then Cambodian happy pizza, then sheesa, then qat... what's next... have been smelling some funky incense here in Rastafarian land... ;-) Tags: Yemen Ethiopia drugs |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Monday, October 06, 2008 |
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Got lucky (truly amazing how many times I say that!) & got a free 1st class upgrade on my flight here. Not sure how... but ended up as the cabin entertainment... everyone asking questions about my trip. And at the end, 5 different people asked to take me out or show me around. (Oh, & the luck continued... exiting the airport, ran into a guy met in Yemen & got a ride & dinner invite from him.) Well the last few nights, went out with some of these wealthy Ethiopians from the plane. Friday, dinner & drinks at the Sheraton... was warned it's "the hottest place in town"... but oh my god, wasn't prepared for just how hip & elegant a scene! The far majority of women looked like they'd just walked off the cover of Vogue & most of the men where just as striking! And Saturday went to a club that would rival any in LA. Finally last night went to something more local... a bar with few people that looked like me & fantastic jazz band! After 2 months in Yemen where I only saw a few women, all of them being hidden under big black burka/tents... Addis is a wonderful system shock! Not just faces but hair, arms, legs & even cleavage... none of which I saw in the past 5 months in any of the Muslim countries. Which also means time for me to dig out my more revealing clothes! Oh... & alcohol... how great to drink again! Not just beer... but great South African wine! Alcohol was totally illegal in Yemen. (Did somehow manage to drink twice!) And before Yemen... in Egypt, Jordan & even Malaysia alcohol was had to find & expensive. But on the flight, where drinks are free, immediately began making up for lost time... maybe that's why the other passengers were so entertained! Tags: Ethiopia |
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From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Friday, October 03, 2008 |
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I'm sitting on the plane from Yemen to Ethiopia... yeah, plane... was thinking 'bout a boat. Being kidnapped by a Johnny Depp looking Somalian pirate captain sounded fab... but discovered they're ugly so... on the plane... and thinking about today. Today... said goodbye to Yemen, goodbye to the hotel that's been home for 2 months, goodbye to the Yemeni that treated me so wonderfully but in fact, was not & goodbye to truly wonderful German. You've heard me ramble about goodbyes before... hands down, still say that's the hardest part of travel. But they're getting easier... & while not easy, know the natural progression of emotions. Of course, being the one leaving is always easier than staying. At least for me... new city or country adds so much excitement that it makes goodbyes easier. But today was different. Scary different. Was ready to leave Yemen... been there, done that. Happy to get away from the Yemeni. And although I already miss the German, not enough to miss Ethiopia. But again, today something was different. Got depressed & felt really lonely while packing. Maybe because my norm is to pack & mentally say goodbye the night before. But what scares me... & it's been one of my concerns a long time... maybe... jusy maybe... ready to settle longer. But I'm not done. The goal... West African smugglers (drugs, guns or diamonds) still looms in the distant horizon. No quitting yet. Tags: Yemen Ethiopia |
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